Monte Alban excels at 2nd location in Webster
THE PLACE
We heard that Monte Alban Mexican Grill, a favorite Irondequoit restaurant was opening a sister location in Webster. We watched the “opening soon” sign and waited. When it finally opened, sans liquor license, we tried to wait, but just couldn’t. We visited several times before our “official” review. Even without the license, the place has become a friendly family destination, and is popular just about every night of the week.
Disputes about the authenticity of Mexican cuisine will always rage, but authentic depends on the region. While Monte Alban takes its name from an archaeological site in the state of Oaxaca, owners Antonio and Manuel Florio say the recipes come from all over — the Yucatan region, Oaxaca, and Jalisco.
THE FOOD
Over the course of our visits, we have tried several dishes. There are nearly 100 menu items, so there will be something to suit your every mood. One of the house specials is Mole Tradicional ($9.99), a grilled chicken breast topped with the savory dark sauce made from chocolate, ground nuts, fruits and spices. Each region, chef or family claims its own recipe, and this is rich and smoky but subtle. It is served over the sliced chicken breast with a side of rice and an avocado salad.
We also tried the Santarrita mixed plate ($8.99), which features both chile verde and chile colorada. Both are slow simmered meat stews, the first with pork in a green sauce of tangy tomatillos, peppers and garlic. The tangy citrus infused the meat and the long simmering mellowed the heat. The accompanying chile rojo featured strips of beef in a subtle, smoky red sauce colored strictly by the addition of various chiles. Wedges of chewy cheese quesadillas were served alongside.
One of my friends has a fondness for chiles rellenos, or stuffed chiles. Usually these only come stuffed with cheese, battered and deep fried, but here there are several versions that are simply stuffed and baked. We tried the chiles poblanos ($8.99), two poblano peppers stuffed with shredded chicken, topped with cheese and ranchero sauce. The dark green chiles were soft but not mushy, keeping their shape around the chicken. Another variation is the Huatulco Especial ($12.99). Here, the two poblano peppers are stuffed with seasoned shrimp and fish, topped with a creamy corn sauce. The shrimp was mildly spiced, and the fish had a seasoned crust, as you would expect from a fillet grilled on a flat top. This combination was mild but full of flavor.
THE DRINKS
For the first five months the restaurant operated without a liquor license. In some ways this was just fine, as it cultivated a more family friendly environment. Today, it has a full license and can offer traditional margaritas, sangria and cervezas.
THE ATMOSPHERE
Over the years, a number of restaurants have occupied this space, some doing complete remodels, some a few cosmetic touch-ups. This time, the layout remains, but everything else has been stripped to the walls. The carpet has been replaced by rustic wood, the walls have been artfully refinished with stucco and exposed brick. High-back wooden booths line the walls, and the free-standing tables are often rearranged to host large family groups. Bright blue and yellow décor features adorn the walls.
THE SERVICE
I expect great service at high-end fine dining venues, but middle-of-the-road prices usually mean middle-of-the-road service. Monte Alban changed those expectations. I can’t say enough about the cheerful, attentive service — from Manuel Florio’s cordial hosting, to servers who whisk to the table bearing salsa and chips before your napkin hits your lap.
Freelancer Karen Deyle of Rochester is our restaurant critic. E-mail deyledines@aol.com.
Monte Alban Mexican Grill
Address: 2245 Empire Blvd., Webster.
Phone: (585) 787-4700.
On the Web: www.montealban-mexicangrill.com.
Hours: Lunch and dinner, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, noon to 9 p.m. Sunday.
Diet: Vegetarian dishes available.
Accessibility: Accessible entry and restrooms.
Parking: Private lot.
Prices: Lunches, $5.50 to $6.50. Appetizers, $4.50 to $9.99. Dinners, $6.99 to $14.99.
